The Brera art gallery provided a suitable backdrop for Luisa Beccaria’s collection, dubbed a bohemian trip even though the romantic visions that swooshed around the gallery’s cloisters — cotton eyelet dresses, jumpsuits, wrap dresses and floor-skimming chiffons — appeared to be of a more conventional nature. Texture subtly provided a gravitas and modernity to the collection’s girly spring shapes, and an artisanal edge to linen skirts and jackets in predominantly muted neutrals broken up by refreshing bursts of poppy red and gold. Beccaria’s signature florals came faded for the finale, showcasing the designer’s on-trend sartorial green fingers, and offering plenty for the red-carpet set.

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