In his final collection for the brand before decamping to Hermès, Christophe Lemaire sent out a veritable swan song of sportif. Traditional tennis whites — check. The infamous polo — check, check. But it was what he did with the rest of the lineup that won the game. “I was thinking minimalism,” said the designer as he was prepping for the show, “and using the shapes to create a graphic story.” So rather than pattern play, that meant clean lines in mostly generous cuts, spare for a smattering of mesh swimsuits and slim miniskirts that were a nod to the net. Kimono coats were in flowing nylon and paired nicely over a cognac ultrasuede top and pleated pants in bright orange. Armholes meanwhile were cut deeper and sleeves wider on everything from loosely woven knits to off-the-shoulder terry-cloth dresses, both of which volleyed nicely with the higher waists Lemaire used throughout.

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