In her show notes, Louise Gray said she wanted to celebrate inspiring individuals, listing such radical feminine figures of the 20th century as Claude Cahun, Vali Myers and Gala Dalí. But the designer’s short tweed suits with patch pockets soon yielded to her familiar and colorful melting pot of Bollywood style and African street culture. In the mix were crafty-looking pieces such as chiffon dresses with shiny sequins or chunky ribbon embroideries, and tweed trenchcoats with plastic overlay, but the collection felt a little lost under the vast glass roof of the old Eurostar terminal.

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