Be the kind of person you want to be — an empowering statement, and one that Antonio Marras didn’t take lightly this season. His extensive show notes cited Jean Genet’s play “The Maids,” particularly its two central characters Claire and Solange, as inspiration. They secretly played dress-up in their mistress’s clothes to mimic her, and the collection Marras showed was diverse enough to please both the lady of the house and the help.
While it lacked an overall sense of cohesion, there were still plenty of looks that showcased the designer’s softer side, though he’s typically more comfortable with the austere elements of his native Sardinia. Marras started with painterly floral prints for draped blouses and floaty, tiered dresses that had a romantic touch. He inserted and layered some of these pieces with micro-pleated panels. Several ensembles also played to the Italian bombshell, like an animal-print jacket teamed with a bra and pencil skirt, or a clingy, curvy dress with a molded bust. For the finale, Marras sent out a group of his familiar folkloric looks. They had little to do with the rest of the lineup but would surely please his loyal maids.