Tomas Maier’s direction at Bottega Veneta has transformed the Italian luxury house into a star brand at PPR, but the journey he went on for spring simply had too many destinations. “Urban chic,” the designer said backstage after the show. “It was about traveling and handicraft, and opening your eyes to this in big cities. Sometimes, you don’t even need to travel.” Though there were appealing looks such as the leather and organza short-sleeve shirtdresses in indigo and violet, Maier’s lineup felt cacophonous — less traveling spirit and more wandering mind.

He started the collection with two bustier dresses in jewel-tone green and violet, suggesting a sexier side for Maier, who typically favors refinement and unusual, luxe fabrics. He quickly moved on, though, to severe leather and structured PVC dresses with a slight fetishistic-cum-Courrèges touch, followed by printed jackets and pants practically hidden under oversize fringed scarves. At times, his details provided an unnecessary sensory overload — mixing and matching wild patterns, adding black plaster squares on a cashmere cardigan and dress bodices, or detailing a printed jacquard frock with multiple layers of draped and twisted chiffon. His color palette of deep browns and purples didn’t help lighten the collection’s spirit, but the final four flowing chiffon gowns, draped and layered in livelier hues of red, violet and blue, ended the show on a beautiful note.

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