Fashion by day. That was Karl Lagerfeld’s message at Fendi. “Life is not a cocktail party,” he proclaimed before the show. “I like daily life.” Lagerfeld’s take on daytime chic had nothing to do with the trappings of spring’s favorite “It” girl, the flapper. Rather, he identified another muse, embracing “the idea of Italian women dressing like they used to on the streets of Milan or Rome.” That meant a wealth of chic, grown-up clothes that felt very real and ultra-inviting.
Relative to the dizzying display of color and prints out there, one could call this collection calm, worked as it was in snappy seasonal neutrals — black, camel, ivory, navy — with shots of color and languid stripes. Yet relativity at times deceives. These clothes had a lot going on in terms of cut and details, starting with the shoulders. Lagerfeld rounded, flanged, extended, caped and exposed them on jackets, dresses and tops.
Though he worked these treatments throughout, he didn’t become obsessed, instead offering a diverse range for diverse women. There were quirky, colorful mini geometrics embroidered on white shirtings; lushly cabled knits on sheer chiffon that turned a classic racy; wonderful shirt looks from a blue-and-white striped dress with a crisscross bodice to a lacy blue beauty worn with leather jeans. While the sportif mood ruled, ladified fare was presented in dresses with offbeat, square apron-like bodices edged in ruffles.
Speaking of offbeat, on the fur front, Lagerfeld had his way with fox, showing it in a fabulous, long, almost hippie-worthy vest done up with big, color-tinged medallions. “You can’t live waiting for parties,” the designer said. But he sure brought a shot of luxe flamboyance to the bright of day.