When you can hear the clothes coming, you know subtlety is not on the menu. Indeed, the ringer for a toreador, clad in black leggings and a cropped jacket embroidered with brass bells that jingled all the way down the runway to open the Moschino spring show, was not a harbinger of understatement. Nor is that what the house is about, although, by Moschino standards, this was a grounded collection.
Backstage before the show, designer Rosella Jardini specified Spanish and Latin culture in general as her main inspirations for the season, which she wanted to be “very feminine and sensual but not sexy.” She hit the mark with wrap dresses done in romantic Spanish ruffles, traditional ivory Mexican lace on a beauty of a bias cut dress and relatively simple silhouettes trimmed in colorful, South American-inspired beading. More fantasy-driven were the fringed styles — a poncho, suede dress and jumpsuit — and a cornucopia of embellished jackets, including a black leather motorcycle version sewn with hippie patches. It came out of left field, intentionally. As Jardini explained, there were “Moschino touches” — cat eye glasses and Frida Kahlo floral headpieces —“to let you know where you are.”