Roberto Cavalli was in the mood for big prints and amped-up embellishment for spring. A grid of red pipes and fancy chandeliers was suspended over his runway. Here’s guessing industrial baroque was the point, which he made by planting gold sequins and lavish embroideries all over bright, bold floral prints in psychedelic colors and animal motifs. They appeared — sometimes all at once — on tailored jackets paired with knife pleated skirts. Pleats were a mainstay, on skirts and dresses, long and short, which were piped in large sequins with a print hidden in the fold.


Despite the blitz of decoration, the collection felt rather tired. This look has been around, but here the details were too harsh, as in harness necklines on pretty dresses or black lace on a soft print. Things improved as the show went on, and the influence of recent Givenchy became more pronounced. The lines were nice on slim satin tuxedo pants and an embroidered leather jacket. But the best looks were the simplest — sporty baby dolls in mixed prints with sexy racer backs.

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