Massimiliano Giornetti’s mood board for the season was filled with photos of Jerry Hall at her modeling peak — when she was still dating Bryan Ferry, maybe already being wooed by Mick Jagger and chaperoned by Andy Warhol at Studio 54. “Controlled chaos” is how the designer described the collection, and he took the early-Eighties theme and ran with it, sometimes going a little too far. He reworked some of Ferragamo’s archival floral-, tropical- and jungle-print scarves in vivid colors and used them for disco-ready jumpsuits and draped and tweaked dresses and tops. But the endless parade of them felt like Maria von Trapp had raided the house’s scarf closet to make clothes for her stepchildren. Still, there were several appealing looks — a flowing goddess gown, a red drop-waist peasant dress and the purple silk suit teamed with a magenta top with a nod to Saint Laurent. And the few day looks — such as the casual but elegant suits in a fuchsia Prince of Wales check or pinstripes — were a highlight.

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