In just a few seasons, Joseph Altuzarra has differentiated himself as a leading talent of his generation. For spring, he powerfully evolved his utilitarian, Nineties themes with a more sportif take. Citing hockey as one of his inspirations, he started with graphic leather dresses in black or white with scale-like perforations and track jackets with leather collars and chiffon inserts. After a few of those urban looks, he traveled to the shores of Hawaii, with a green palm, tropical flower and bird print inspired by bathing suits and track suits from the Eighties and Nineties — a theme he mirrored with a lush backdrop of botanical walls. It was refreshing to see him manage to give the old Magnum P.I. favorite an edge, which is no easy feat. Altuzarra also proved that he is advancing technically with a new knit of five-color stitches, which he teamed with leather details on dresses and tops, and a dress he engineered to give the hem a wave-like movement.