Citing a recent Berlin exhibition of Helmut Newton Polaroids from the Seventies and Eighties as his inspiration, Bibhu Mohapatra compared his spring woman to Newton’s sensibility: sensual and sophisticated. The designer sought to make “skin the embellishment” by playing with sheer panels on column dresses and a wing-sleeve cocktail version, while other frocks had satin strap details reminiscent of bondage elements. They all looked more sophisticated than suggestive. Mohapatra also worked his hand on a lightly embroidered gown, a delicately pleated version and a dramatic laser-cut and embroidered confection. For day, there were tailored suits, sheer blouses, a cropped jacket with laser-cut panels and plenty of polished dresses. Most noteworthy, though, was the custom chain print, which added a hard edge to his ladylike dresses.

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