The Chado Ralph Rucci collection was breathtaking — and for many reasons, Rucci’s traditionally incredible fabrics and workmanship certainly being two of them. He maintained their couture quality yet moved toward looks that women will find accessible while still interesting. Other than the abundant presence of plastic, Rucci’s approach was more subtle than ever. Layers were gentle, and embroidery and embellishments never overpowered the already striking silhouettes. For the most part, insets and dramatic seaming had a light touch, as did the python pencil skirt paired casually with a tucked white chiffon shirt. A double-faced lavender wool crepe dress moved over a barely visible tulle skirt. Rucci seemed to have fun with his details, evident on a white wool coat with playful black circles. Even shapes with glitter were kept simple — a lean tunic and skirt in silver paillettes, and the easy, black beaded caviar blouson dress was a knockout. This collection was strong because of its restraint as well as its execution shown in the gorgeous gowns, as in the white glass beaded version with a fuchsia beaded skirt panel in back.

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