This season the runway “felt a little beside the point for my business,” said Isaac Mizrahi. He wanted to keep it small so he simply showed his collection to WWD while shooting his spring look book Thursday morning. Last season got too big, he said, because “we had to have all these people and so many more models.” Not to mention dyed poodles and cakes.

Scaling back makes perfect sense. As Mizrahi pointed out, the line is tightly edited — just 18 dresses — and expensive. So he prefers to show it directly to his customers, women in the market for something fancy.


Inspired by “floral camouflage,” he shot against a backdrop emblazoned with an exploded peony print, pink flowers on a black background, that also appeared on two dresses. Aside from the short, straight cocktail styles and a single wispy leopard-print floral “cover up,” the look was quite grand. Gowns were cut in the exaggerated lines of a sketch artist with slim bodices, mermaid skirts and flamboyant embellishments, like the gigantic wreaths of bows that adorned the waist of a hot-pink gown.

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