A little Pop, a little sport, a lot of chic, mixed with a graffiti-artist collaboration and a sly touch of au courant fetishism. That was the formula at Jason Wu, which made for another impressive outing, an expression of young glam with a whiff of mischief. Wu found himself inspired by the work of street artist KAWS, particularly his Nineties reworking of Kate Moss bus-shelter posters that he would remove in the still of the night, decorate and replace soon thereafter. “I love that contrast,” Wu said earlier in the week. His plan was to “mix something a little funny with haute couture shapes.” When Wu told this to a friend who happens to know KAWS, the artist agreed to work on a print for the collection, his faintly outlined cartoon hand-drawn over a soothing petal pattern. The subtlety proved savvy, the visual wit not overpowering the designer’s polished aesthetic.
Shapewise, a controlled retro vibe was realized in peplum looks, some set atop a flurry of feathers; pinup-worthy glam briefs and any number of shirts and shirtdresses, some with jeweled collars, all buttoned up for that tinge of naughty austerity. Throughout, Wu hinted at sports references in mesh accents and heathered gray silk gazar intended to resemble a sweatshirt. The Pop came in frenetic embroideries placed with strict control on bodices, collars and cuffs, and in colorful explosions, especially the evening fare in electric blue, yellow and pink that for all their flamboyant volume looked light as air.