With the main Marc Jacobs collection displaced by Hurricane Irene, Marc by Marc Jacobs found itself bumped into the big kids’ spot — Monday, 8 p.m. at the Lexington Avenue Armory. Same venue, same show, but there was a major shift in energy. People were geared up for the night, a mood not typical of Tuesday afternoon, when the show is usually scheduled. And, though it was most likely pure coincidence, the clothes had a new attitude too. They were sleeker, cleaner and more grown up than they have been in recent memory. Marc by Marc has a new groove.
The word Bauhaus appeared in the description of several items on the shownotes, and, indeed there was major minimalism going on in silhouette and color — solids and neons. A boxy electric orange top was worn over simple navy shorts, and a fuss-free shift dress that had a navy top and green skirt. It was plain yet powerful, and often playful. No one designs a high-heeled hightop with a straight face.
For his male counterpart, Jacobs struck a similarly purist note with a more sophisticated, grown-up aesthetic. Looks included slim-fit tailoring in fiery hues like red and green, utilitarian parkas and a looser Warwick plaid overcoat.