An underwater fantasy painted by Ilya Repin and the drawings of Ernst Haeckel inspired Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s collection for Marchesa. And it was dazzling. They worked with translucent mesh, layers of tulle and chiffon; fish scalelike embroidery and cascading silk fringes, much of it coming together in three-dimensional dresses and gowns. The play of sheer with embroidery and overlays of tulle floating on second-skin sheaths was masterful, demonstrated on the draped charcoal organza tulle dress with hand-embroidered illusion underlay, and the sculptural dress with metallic cascades. These clothes are far from subtle, but they were never intended for the faint of heart.

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