Abstract watercolor motifs on hand-painted silk Hawaiian shirts and blouson jackets were the colorful centerpieces at Patrik Ervell’s show. Slim tailoring was a key element of the collection, which had a more sophisticated, grown-up quality than seasons past — although the designer’s forward-looking bent could be seen in medical scrubs pants with elasticized cuffs and ironic-tacky ties. He also used his Hawaiian theme in his first women’s collection. It had a stern edge like the men’s, incorporating masculine references like tuxedo blazers, baseball jackets and leather flight jackets. Despite the promise of his talent, Ervell continues to favor familiar silhouettes with subtle details that can give a lackluster energy to a show.

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