Reed Krakoff’s path as a fashion designer has moved in the reverse of almost every other talent of his generation. He is one of the most successful creative heads in the industry, admired and respected around the world for his contributions at Coach. In the two years since he ventured into sportswear, Krakoff has had what’s probably essential growing pains. For spring, he continued to soften his utilitarian, uniform aesthetic with a more feminine take, using colors like yellow, orange and nude, and chiffon and lightweight leathers that added a more fluid touch to the lineup. His choice of cellophane for pleated skirts and panel dresses demonstrated his willingness to experiment, and his abstract eagle motifs on silk jacquard and leather designs offered a fresh perspective on the season’s print trend. To his credit, there were many wearable clothes — more so than in his three previous outings — but there was still a sense that Krakoff has yet to fully articulate his message. Luckily for him, he has the resources to hasten the process.

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