The boyfriend jean and shrunken jacket look that anchored the Theyskens’ Theory show is by no means new. But what Olivier Theyskens brought to the look was his distinct sense of Gothic whimsy, a coating of cool fairy dust that gives familiar street clothes some magic. Theyskens built on the pretty girl/tomboy dichotomy he set up season one at Theory, this time with his eye trained on those iconic tweeds from a certain French house. He had a little fun with the typically elitist look, tweaking it on a white micromini tank dress and a multitude of shrunken jackets on which he misplaced pockets under the armpit or cut open in the back. He dressed it down with jeans worn loose and low on the hips, or at least they gave that impression — many were done with two waists, one high, one low. And he dressed it up with a holographic motif, hinted at on the mirrored invitations and the reflective runway, which recurred throughout via Lurex knits; shiny, trippy jeans, and two sequined dresses that appeared to glow. The moody infanta gowns aside, the collection was full of strong streetwear that could go day or night, a point Theyskens made by showing it with ultrahigh heels (that looked a little cheap, not in the inexpensive way) for the first walk, and combat boots for the finale.

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