This collection was about power dressing, but not of the bold-shouldered “Working Girl” variety. With strappy-back dresses razor slashed to expose one leg right up to the panty line, and intricately constructed LBDs puzzled together from elasticized straps, washed silks and patterned devoré panels (a brand signature), this was an after-dark body-conscious wardrobe honoring the oiled-limbed, athletic sexuality captured by photographer Herb Ritts in the Nineties. Showing more substance, boosted by a hefty money prize from the designer’s recent ANDAM win (the fashion award also included mentorship from former Chloé ceo Ralph Toledano), Anthony Vaccarello’s growing confidence was palpable in this collection that sizzled.

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