Now in his fourth season designing women’s wear, Damir Doma is making himself comfortable. His collection, a departure from his trademark ascetic tailoring, was inspired by his sister Dorotea’s jewelry designs, which included bold gilded chokers bookended with raw semiprecious stones. These anchored fluid silk crepe evening gowns and scarf-neck blouses in opulent shades of plum, cobalt and chartreuse. “I used a lot of superlight silks because I really wanted the pieces to fly,” Doma explained. That spirit was best captured in the billowing backs of A-line coats, whose sheer fabric contrasted with leather sleeves.

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