Showing at the tail end of Paris Fashion Week, Elie Saab put a searing exclamation mark on the season with a series of glimmering hourglass gowns in emerald green and Yves Klein blue. The Beirut-based designer touched on a few trends, namely lace and pleats. The former was spliced into waistbands and bodices; the latter lined up in lattice formation on sheer blouses or fanned out into swishing skirts.
Working with his familiar va-va-voom silhouettes — flowing chiffon gowns with thigh-baring slits and fishtail numbers with plunging necklines — Saab let color and surface treatments tell his story. Hues ran the gamut, from off-white and ochre to jewel tones, while textures were sometimes crackled, sometimes liquid, sometimes powdery. There was a prim side to this collection, too, with pussy bows on halter gowns and buttoned-up collared blouses. But showiness ultimately won out, with opalescent sequins marching up lace dresses or dense, Klimt-like embroideries clustering on strapless columns. Just pick a color, find a carpet and walk toward the flashbulbs.