The current fixation on midcentury couture bodes well for Giambattista Valli, for whom the grand shapes and structure are a constant obsession. Like last season, he scaled back on volume to focus on rich fabrics and decorative treatments used to conjure a rich, bohemian mood.

Valli was wise to stick to simple silhouettes — straight, sleeveless shifts were a mainstay — that offset the opulence of cloque, brocade and Swarovski crystals, sometimes arranged as panels that combined for a patterned color-block effect. Colors were kept warm and light with plenty of pink, ivory, yellow and metallic gold. Some looks were done in head-to-toe patterns, like blown out zebra stripes, others were accessorized with golden snake bracelets piled up the arms. Then there were the real showpieces, fuzzy fringed vests and skirts done in graphic prints, a pinky ikat, for example, which were clearly Valli’s springtime substitution for fur. They were a clever top-off to the collection’s Talitha Getty in Kathmandu moment.

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