In his first outing as women’s wear designer at Issey Miyake, Yoshiyuki Miyamae opened with nude-colored outfits inspired by plants and flower buds. A sheer jacket in a shiny triacetate-mixed fabric featured sleeves split open at the seams, while a filmy white shirt came with a jabot in the house’s trademark pleats. The collection was conceived in the aftermath of the March 11 tsunami and nuclear catastrophe and reflected the brand’s attachment to working with local craftspeople. Racer-back vests and cycling shorts featured graphic motifs, with a hint of tribal art, created through a fiber dissolving process, while billowing jumpsuits and dresses came in abstract patterns inspired by blooms. But Miyamae’s thoughtful approach unfortunately did not translate into a single strong direction. With its profusion of stirrup-footed leggings and harem pants, this collection felt dated.

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