What does Galliano look like without Galliano? More alike than different, as it turns out. Bill Gaytten held tight to the original ethos of the label — girly and delicate — for his first collection, even drawing on the era that Galliano often plied for inspiration. “From Mary Pickford to Mary Poppins…movie stars inspire a modern new voice,” declared the program. But Gaytten put some distance between his point of view and Galliano’s.

The first thing to go was the theatrics — the painted faces, messy marcelled hair and the piled on styling. The hats, here crushed boaters, stayed. The tailoring was still pretty — solid, fitted jackets worn over full, pleated skirts — and the bias-cut dresses still filmy, dainty and a little retro for day, sheer and glamorous for evening.

If some of the fantasy and imagination were lost in the transition, there was a gain in clarity. Gaytten’s more natural (read: commercial) approach to the clothes worked. Those questioning how and why the line lives on, might now understand.

What does Galliano look like without Galliano? More alike than different, as it turns out. Bill Gaytten held tight to the original ethos of the label — girly and delicate — for his first collection, even drawing on the era that Galliano often plied for inspiration. “From Mary Pickford to Mary Poppins…movie stars inspire a modern new voice,” declared the program. But Gaytten put some distance between his point of view and Galliano’s.

The first thing to go was the theatrics — the painted faces, messy marcelled hair and the piled on styling. The hats, here crushed boaters, stayed. The tailoring was still pretty — solid, fitted jackets worn over full, pleated skirts — and the bias-cut dresses still filmy, dainty and a little retro for day, sheer and glamorous for evening.

If some of the fantasy and imagination were lost in the transition, there was a gain in clarity. Gaytten’s more natural (read: commercial) approach to the clothes worked. Those questioning how and why the line lives on, might now understand.

To Read the Full Article
SUBSCRIBE NOW

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus