In this graceful and well executed collection, Junya Watanabe elevated simple squares of kitsch guipure lace, brimming with vivid floral and feather motifs, into a series of intriguingly beautiful dresses.

Each was unique in its gently varying construction, some with draped ruching details at the back or bias-cut sleeves, others with scalloped layered necklines or elegant cape effects. A Cuban soundtrack set the mood for the show and added a voodoo vibe, as models’ paraded in wild hats of sculpted sprays of feathers resembling wayward hairdos after having rhumbaed the night away. Outerwear was also a melting pot of references, ranging from loud Caribbean-flavored ruffled boleros with leather biker jacket details, military anoraks and bomber jackets clouded in black tulle to a section of precisely-cut black and beige trench capes and dresses in luxury Mackintosh fabrics that had an impressive Victorian formality about them.

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