It was back to DIY at the house Martin built. Want to toughen up your evening column? Simply attach a leather skirt front with Velcro (or, in the house parlance, “scratch sticky bands.”) If the occasion is a bit snazzier, a panel of shantung might do the trick. The high-minded Belgian label took on a womanly silhouette as its canvas this season, decorating a bustier gown with industrial zips in lieu of boning, and tossing rectangles of silk on to slinky jersey dresses. To a loping reggae beat, models traversed a hodgepodge of oriental rugs, some of which suddenly appeared as quirky wrap skirts and dresses. Reconfiguring men’s garments was another pursuit this season, yielding tailored jackets and crisp white shirts with bits of fabric jutting from the seams, like excess piecrust not trimmed from the pan. The allure of the show was certainly soigné, albeit rough around the edges.

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