Even when she’s not there, Lady Gaga is the main attraction at Mugler. She didn’t actually attend the spring show, but it opened with a film by Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin in which Gaga appeared, pigtailed and buck-toothed, repeating “Don’t f–k with Mugler” on a zany but hypnotic loop. Her connection to the brand, through Nicola Formichetti, Mugler’s creative director, has made it a new media sensation. But it seems to be a one-way symbiotic street. The clothes, designed by Sébastien Peigné, remained secondary to the hype.
The collection began as a science fiction-tinged sea of beige and white body-conscious shapes with curved, asymmetric cuts and cutouts. There was a futuristic yet prehistoric quality to the jackets and skirts that were short in front and long in the back but resembled rawhides. They had something in common with what Raquel Welch wore in “One Million Years B.C.,” minus the rough, organic part. That’s to say it was all quite sexy and slick, but at the same time bland. Once Gaga loses interest, one wonders if this collection will have any relevance.