Pedro Lourenço, the young Brazilian who’s been on the Paris scene just four seasons, is at an enviable stage in his very brief career. Endowed with generous resources and raw ambition, he’s on his own terms, and it’s a pleasure to behold. The designer was looking at the mixed textures of ecological architecture when he created his spring collection. A geometric patchwork of leather, jute, light velvet, silvery cellophanelike material and green tube beads meant to look like grass was applied all over slim skirts, cropped square pants and leather jackets done in sporty, futuristic shapes. Such a mix of fabrics is not easily mastered, but Lourenço’s technical craft is quite advanced, though it sometimes enabled his tendency to overdesign in a direction that bears resemblance to the recent stylings of Balenciaga. The silver-foiled pants with a zipper across the rear and slim, layered dresses were the lineup’s most wearable pieces, but jackets — inspired by constructivist toys and mounted with huge, curling leather epaulets — could have done with less, though the youthful exuberance they represented was quite refreshing.

Sign In to Your Account
load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus