Count Marco Zanini among designers transfixed with Fifties housewives this season. His are an icy bunch, shielding out the world with mirrored cat-eye sunglasses and clutching a stiff silk organza kerchief like a talisman.
In his show notes, Zanini said a medley of his favorite movies inspired the collection, though with “allusions made in passing.” Tim Burton’s “Mars Attacks!” certainly sprang to mind with the towering beehives, conical breasts on piqué swimsuits and the wonky prints, including childlike gears and tablecloth checks. The accoutrements and sorbet colors were kitsch, but the silhouettes were chic.
Zanini opened the show with a lustrous, severe raincoat in a cappuccino shade, foreshadowing the uncluttered shapes and stiff couture fabrics that followed. Organza dusters, full-skirted dresses and slim-line shifts with trumpet hems heightened the retro cocktail-hour mood. The lumpy, tinsellike knits, however, were strictly alien territory.