A perky Fifties bombshell dropped into Roland Mouret’s world for spring, which fed into the crop-top and pencil-skirt look that’s been big thus far this season. He put a stamp of seductive polish on it with modern accents — for example, bandeau tops done in bandage constructions, grosgrain ribbon belts and exposed zippers down the backs of skirts. There were updates on Forties silhouettes, too — wrap dresses in bright colors sporting contrast leather tulip appliqués. It seemed Mouret, too, had heeded the call of novelty. He worked a graphic eye detail as a cutout at the waistline of a dress and trimming the hem of a skirt. It was distinctive yet a little odd, which might have been what he was going for in the quest to create something iconic. “I wanted to have that thing that is controversial,” Mouret said backstage following the show. “It’s like Picasso, Cocteau or Matisse. The women around them were absorbing their creative symbols. That’s the nature of our work.”

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