Not so many years ago, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were attracting interest from the likes of couture house Givenchy. After the collection the Dutch duo showed on Saturday afternoon, it’s very likely Mattel could come knocking.
Taking their doll fixation to a new zenith, the duo paraded clothes that Barbie would run right out and buy, featuring gigantic stitching, magnified lace, candy-shop colors and purses with clasps so big even Fiona, Shrek’s wife, wouldn’t fumble for change. While there were slim pickings for real women, the show was a hoot.
When the house lights came on, French singing duo Brigitte appeared at the end of the runway, perched on skirts two stories high. The pleats parted on one of them and out strolled the dolls on ruffled patent mules.
During a preview, the designers said they studied real doll clothes, their exaggerated proportions and two-dimensional aspect. “It’s slightly ironic but also elegant,” Snoeren deadpanned. Indeed, the curlicues of outsize lace worked like a charm as demonstrative lapels on an azure blue evening trench, while crystal-studded organza loops threaded on the edges of brief jackets and A-line dresses sparkled enticingly.
In a retro-tinged European season where many collections exuded a toylike gloss, Horsting and Snoeren were certainly on trend, and continuing with a theme they used for cruise. But given that they’ve coaxed wonderment with dolls — remember Maggie Rizer twirling on a riser? — this looked like child’s play.