Rodolfo Paglialunga found inspiration in the Thirties for his collection of reedy evening gowns for Vionnet, some of which brought to mind Wallis Simpson. But his was not a literal take on the period: He injected modern elements like lemon and lime color-blocking on dresses with large zippers opening in back, or fluorescent piping trim on the neckline of a silver-sequined navy cocktail dress. A bucolic spirit threaded through the show, from bold spring blooms to the glittery embroidered bees and butterflies that were scattered on some gowns. There was also a hint of Americana in the studded stars punched onto a fuchsia cotton shirtdress, or another in acid green satin whose yoke construction echoed that of a cowboy shirt. Cotton shorts, ruched like couture frocks, brought a relaxed and elegant vibe to a collection that was easier, though — with the exception of silver foil embroideries on retro tulle or silk floor-length gowns — not as richly textured, than Paglialunga’s previous efforts.

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