The designer, who is rapidly making a name for himself in his native Australia as the regional winner of the International Woolmark Prize, made his London debut this season. And what a show it was. This sophisticated collection was packed with leather — laser-cut, braided, embellished with rubber film, or paired with pleated chiffon. He cut white leather into biker jackets and origami-fold skirts and transformed iridescent leather into a sculptural peplum detail on a lavender dress. Lee softened his collection with panels of sheer chiffon on T-shirts and dresses and added punches of color — such as tangerine — via rubber film that had been heat-transferred onto the fabrics. This is a designer who’s fascinated by form, texture, and fabric technology, but who approaches his work with a light — and sometimes playful — touch.

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