Emilia Wickstead, who is making her name dressing the Duchess of Cambridge and Britain’s First Lady Samantha Cameron, sent out a collection of demure, ladylike looks tailor-made for diplomatic missions — full skirts that hit below the knee, nipped waists and voluminous eveningwear. The designer said she was inspired by the wardrobes of social stars of yore including Marella Agnelli, Babe Paley and Gloria Guinness. And while the narrower silhouettes and lighter fabrics looked great, like the green silk short-sleeve dress, there was by far too much bulk, with waffle fabrics further weighing things down.

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