“I wanted the color to be saturated, like the powder paints you see at Indian weddings,” the designer said of his spring collection, which he showed by appointment on the eve of London Fashion Week, which kicks off today and runs through Sept. 18. He applied the sun-drenched shades to his signature skinny knits, evening gowns, and embroidery galore.

Curvy day dresses come in stretch gabardine, and have detachable embroidered collars, while body-con knitted dresses are made from stretch silk cotton, and dotted with cutouts. Evening gowns have intricate, silver beading and embroidery snaking down the front.

“It’s for glam island life, and for a woman who works out and wants to show off her body,” said Macdonald, adding that he plans to return to the runway in the near future. Prices run up to 15,000 pounds, or $24,000, for one of his intricately beaded evening numbers. All of the rtw will be made in Macdonald’s Mayfair atelier, along with the designer’s bespoke pieces for private clients.

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