Competition is intense among purveyors of print in London, and design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos met that challenge by adding 3-D embroideries, beading and cutouts to their digitally generated patterns. Complex shapes — undulating peplums, tiered ruffles and jutting, pannierlike extensions on sleeves and skirts — further warped their impression.
While inventive and well executed, the collection felt heavy-handed and overly busy. The best dresses were the simplest, with short, sculpted kimonolike sleeves and graphic necklines that exalted the prints, rather than overwhelming them. To their credit, Pilotto and De Vos know how to cut feminine, flattering and striking clothes. They just need to get the balance right.