Tom Ford talks about bondage knots as others might the weather — like it’s the most normal subject in the world. And so he should, as tough chic is fashion territory the American designer has claimed for years. For spring, he went for “a mix of chastity and perversity,” which meant the bondage knots that wrapped up silky tops and dresses were tied using silk cord, and slithery black patent pencil skirts were often teamed with roll-neck sweaters or loose, blouson tops.
But make no mistake: This collection was fierce and often brazenly sexy. There were glossy, patent trenchcoats with demonstrative collars in black and nude; skintight pants composed of tiny strips of cobalt blue leather, and slinky gowns made up of beaded mesh bands unstitched here and there to reveal flashes of thigh.
Asked if the languid viscose hoodies and tight knee pants were meant to impart a sporty undercurrent, Ford seemed a bit wounded, preferring to talk about the perverse elements, including a swimsuit with a jockstraplike bottom and killer metallic heels with zip-on shin guards. (As in previous seasons, press was not allowed to photograph the collection.)
To be sure, his sleek and dressy fashions are targeted at confident women who want to be noticed coming and going. For the latter occasion, Ford created striking cocktail dresses and gowns in papery taffeta or liquid jersey with billowing, couture backs.