That the buzzwords bandied about backstage before Alberta Ferretti’s show included “sensual,” “feminine” and “luminous” was not a news flash. Throw in “ethereal” and “goddess” and you’ve got Ferretti’s aesthetic vocabulary virtually covered. This collection, too, sprung from the designer’s well of hyper-romantic beauty, which never seems to run dry. Puns aside, a wet look was intentional in the lineup, where the goddesses were more like sirens, the kind lonesome sailors shipwreck over in fairy tales — or Ice Capades, in the case of a short, skaterly blue dress with nude tulle embroidered with lace. (There were also hints of McQueen in the aquatic.)
The liquidity was conveyed in a couple of ways. First came fringed dresses, some of which featured fringe embroidery, veiled in a layer of sheer, pale organza that resulted in a foamy iridescence. Then, at the end of the show, Ferretti worked slick lamés in black, blue, green and ivory on her signature fluid gowns, here done with an artfully tattered sensibility. “There’s almost an absence of gravity,” she said preshow. “As if the fabrics are floating around the woman.” That was precisely the effect on pretty cutaway chiffon tops worn over cropped pants — Ferretti’s newest proposition for evening — and the array of tattoo lace-on-tulle gowns that seemed to melt off the body.