Not the type to get to work without a specific inspiration in mind, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi zeroed in on Picasso and Commedia dell’Arte for spring. Though creatively rich with beautiful colors, interesting patterns and fabric techniques, the overall result was uneven.

The jewel-toned palette was the collection’s strong suit, which the designers used in painterly prints that had a stained-glass quality, and diamond–patterned jacquards that referenced Harlequin and Pierrot. They appeared in meticulous mash-ups within a single look — sharp bustier tops, tunics belted over skirts, and short, straight dresses with banded waists. The best reflected an expert command of color, but there were a fair amount of awkward silhouettes, too: bustier tops worn with long pencil skirts, a voluminous pouch at the hips, and tops that were fitted around the bust and bubbled over a miniskirt. There was theatrical whimsy to appreciate but it needed a little finesse.

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