There are many fond fashion memories from the early Nineties, though not all are of the clothes. For spring, Dean and Dan Caten seemed to channel the supermodel decade with a high-octane collection of ultrasexy looks. While fun to watch, the flashback took too literal a turn.
The show kicked off with a black-and-white video of the Catens during fittings that set a distinct Nineties vibe. When the screen lifted, there were the designers onstage, tweaking Cara Delevingne’s T-shirt, harness and short shorts before she hit the runway in a sashay that evoked Linda Evangelista in George Michael’s “Too Funky” video.
What followed was a mash-up of Nineties Versace, Chanel and Moschino. Nearly all the pieces were black, replete with era-appropriate trappings: strands of pearls and gold chains piled high, and leather newsboy caps that harkened back to Peter Lindbergh’s famous 1990 supermodel shoot for Vogue. The silhouettes were micro. Shrunken tops and motorcycle jackets were teamed with HotPants so short they looked more like undies. The look was often completed with white “Caten” and “Squared” logo T-shirts, such as with the strapless bustier minidress in quilted leather. It was all very S&M Barbie.
While the designers showed some strong exits — a wine-colored skirt suit with white dots had a youthful elegance — the trip through the Nineties could have used a bit of irony.