With a perfume of Asia, and plenty of diaphanous fabrics, Peter Dundas steered the Florentine house in a softer, more languid direction for spring.

The opening looks in gleaming white were especially enchanting, with delicate dragon and tiger embroideries winking underneath sheer dresses and tunics. Loose chiffon pants wafted around the legs seductively like fog. Sexy platform sandals — in crackled gold, or intricately carved Chinese motifs — kept his fashion statement rooted in some thumping disco in Shanghai or Tokyo.

Since arriving in 2008, Dundas has made Pucci as famous for heat-seeking clothes as it once was for its kaleidoscopic prints on silk jersey. Here, there was plenty to turn heads and increase male pulses, including regal halter gowns and skinny cheongsams that plunged daringly to reveal the small of the back, or abbreviated, filigree shorts flashing under a loose silk tunic with frog closures.

But there were also enough new elements to widen Pucci’s customer base, including a noisy series of street-savvy aviator jackets encrusted with embroidered patches. One handsome kimono jacket, intricately quilted, looked almost cozy.

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