Given the round helmets, short A-line shifts and ample military buttons, Rossella Jardini went whole hog for Sixties Pop at Moschino. At first it was rendered in graphic black-and-white, worked in bold contrast on piped dresses and suits, cropped jackets, miniskirts and a little tank jumper. There were jailbird stripes and then the designer moved into color with orange and blue cabana stripes. The house’s signature hearts and flowers were accounted for, as was the wandering array of influences, which meandered through floral territory before ending on a note of girlish purity with a series of white eyelets.

What was missing was Jardini’s usual wink-wink. The look, while fine in craft and cut, lacked the wit and whimsy that can make such a literal retro motif work.

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