With utilitarian sportswear and ultrafeminine touches, No. 21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua played up the masculine-feminine for spring — a collection that nicely evolved the young label.

Backstage before the show, the designer cited “neo-classical” as one of his inspirations. He worked the theme via several linear silhouettes, like a crisp white shirt paired with a skirt worked in a silicon-screened figurine print. Some of the surface embellishments, i.e., the scalelike metal adornments, looked a little awkward and sometimes too weighty. 

Dell’Acqua was at his best when he juxtaposed several mannish silhouettes with body-hugging ones: a boxy python top in harlequin patchworks with a lace skirt, and a paneled transparent T-shirt with an embroidered pencil skirt, both added to the lineup’s modern sensibility.

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