The energy shift from the last Roberto Cavalli collection to this one was remarkable. Between then and now, something clicked, and after a several-seasons-long struggle to find the right direction in which to evolve, the designer’s chakras appeared to be spinning at full tilt.

This was Cavalli in Zen mode, framing his feral brand of sex appeal in elegance and modernity. The opening group of all-white looks introduced a cleaned-up silhouette with tailored jackets, crisp shirts and flared pants that came in extravagant treatments, such as draped fringe and leather that was laser-cut and embroidered to look like lace. Animal motifs took a backseat to engineered prints, shown mostly in black and white, with a few muted neons. 

The soft palette and simple shapes — which went on to include slipdresses and cutaway camisole tunics worn over wide silk pants — had a calming effect on Cavalli’s flashy leanings. It was all still extremely sexy and quite bare at times. Lean, elaborately beaded evening gowns had cutouts low on the hips, down the midriff and around the bust, yet they were controlled.

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