Heroic music punctuated by thundering hooves signaled a gutsier direction for the Florentine house of Ferragamo. The gaucho — fearless of foul weather and possessed of an adventurous spirit — was the muse of creative director Massimiliano Giornetti this season, yielding a handsome, equestrian-tinged collection steeped in luxury.
The show opened with a meaty black trenchcoat, foreshadowing the tailored tone of the lineup and its masculine undercurrent. Giornetti referenced the trench and riding jackets throughout, cutting them with high collars and leather-lined, demonstrative lapels. Shorter jackets were slyly rakish, flaring open in the front and sprouting peplums in the back. Belts from trenches cinched the paper-bag waists of slouchy pants and miniskirts.
Exotic skins were key, from snakeskin pants laced tightly up the sides to a shift dress in supple, cement gray crocodile.
Shoes were fierce: Mainly over-the-knee boots and sandals in glossy leathers lashed from behind like a corset. Slouchy hobos were cupped with bridlelike hardware, while leather tassels dangled from intricately textured postman styles.
Summery this collection wasn’t. To face a windstorm looking chic, Giornetti’s your go-to guy.