A lot has happened to Uma Wang since her show in Milan last season. Singled out by Vogue and the CFDA as a Chinese designer with promise, she spent a portion the summer in New York under the tutelage of the king of sporty American glamour Michael Kors. The two sit at opposite ends of the aesthetic spectrum, yet looking at Wang’s spring runway one could imagine where Kors’ influence took root. The collection was lighter and more feminine than her last, with flashes of skin and even a floral print.
A series of white and ivory dresses, loose and ethereal in a grunge way, opened the show. Wang is of the mind that a woman is at her most alluring when covered up, so the silhouettes were virtually unconstructed. From there, Wang, who was inspired by a wilting white rose, moved into ivory and a tea-stained tone on the faded floral. There was a poetic melancholy to the dresses that shrouded the body in asymmetrical drapes. But once the collection faded to black during the second half, the nuance of the cuts and fabrics blended into the background.