Washed silk micro tunics spliced with peekaboo lace. Elongated metal fringe swishing about the hips. Tie-dyed Stevie Nicks witchy wear with extreme bodice slashes. Jackets over lace and leather undies. Stiletto cage boots. First word that comes to mind? “It’s subtle,” Donatella Versace offered in a preview. “Subtle. Can you underline this?”
Given that subtlety is a relative condition, Versace wasn’t wrong. The collection she showed on Friday night was light, airy and terrifically appealing. In a season of Sixties, this swung more toward “That ’70s Show,” but not obviously so. Rather, she hinted at boho (low-belted tunics) and jet-set (racy shirt and jeans combos) along with the — what’s the word? — subtle nod to Nicks that closed the show.
A creative use of a Medusa print appeared twice, standing out amongst the rumpled silk tie-dyes (moody blues, pinks and oranges) which gave the show its refreshing, casual attitude. So much so that one could have missed Versace’s primary purpose: touting tailoring. “I think people have forgotten how much tailoring there is at Versace,” she said. That’s where the jackets came in, black mannish almost-classics. Cut on the loose, some inset with leather-appliquéd lace, they looked fabulous over bad-girl bras and briefs. But will they fare as well paired with the more versatile skirts and pants of real life? Versace took her bow in a pantsuit. Indeed, they will.