Perhaps it’s his new anonymous investor or the presence of his recently tapped sidekick and chief executive officer, Jeffrey Aronson. Judging from this upbeat, fast-paced collection, Ralph Rucci must be in a good mood. The designer seemed to have fun without losing one drop of the cerebral architectural sculpting and intricate detailing for which he’s known. Color — lots of it — underscored the spirited lineup: a T-shirt dress in bright yellow spliced with neon pink and white; a curvy trapunto suit in shocking pink; a braided leather twinset in coral, all worked in the richest of double-face wools and silks, ultrasuede and taffeta.
Rucci also used brights in smaller, unexpected doses. He belted a black taffeta gown — its skirt layered in copper, pink and yellow for volume — with fuchsia beads, and playfully braided one arm of an otherwise serious black suit in brights. Effortless? Hardly. But Rucci seems to be taking things a little easier.