Working in an earthy palette of golden browns, greens and yellows, Derek Lam took a graphic, textural approach to spring. “Modernism with unexpected warmth was my thought throughout,” he said. His silhouettes were born out of the sportswear classics he loves — trenches, T-shirts, halters and shift dresses.

At times it clung to familiar packages, such as boxy, sweatshirt-type tops over slim skirts and cropped bustier top and A-line skirt combos. Lam’s were plenty stylish and appealing, but the collection could have used a jolt of adventure. That said, much of it was recalculated with an urban slickness that infused the look with currency. Straight tank dresses with high-cut V-necks came in mixed madras and shiny cellophane basket-weave treatments, both traced in leather to emphasize a sporty edge. Clean and refined, a brown jersey bodysuit worn with a marigold-yellow A-line skirt was refreshingly understated.

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